Sep 17, 2014

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India

Kashi Vishwanath Temple - The 9th Jyotirling


sanandamanandavane vasanta manandakandam hatapapavrindam |
varanasinathamanathanatham shrivishvanatham sharanam prapadye ||



"Varanasi" or "Benares" or "Kashi" is a historical city in northern India. The city is sacred to Hindus and also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. In many ways Varanasi epitomizes the very best and worst aspects of India, and it can be a little overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganges at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world.  People of Hindu Religion believe that Varanasi is a must see destination for each individual before they leave this planet.


Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Ghats on the bank of River Ganges, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh



How To Reach

  • Varanasi is well connected by train and bus, with multiple of each heading in every direction daily.  The trains and buses are dirty and overcrowded by Western standards. The people, however, are warm and accommodate westerners who are unfamiliar with their customs and don't take offense when you don't follow their ways.
By Train  
  • Trains are the easiest way to reach Varanasi, with multiple daily services from cities including Delhi, Agra, Lucknow, Mumbai and Kolkata. And weekly services from Chennai, Vijayawada, Hyderabad, Bangalore and Thiruvananthapuram.
  • Varanasi is served by two major railway stations. Many trains arrive at ''Varanasi Junction (IR station code : BSB)'' in the heart of the city, and many others arrive at ''Mughal Sarai Junction (IR station code : MGS)'', about 15 km east of the city. It is a 40 min drive from Mughalsarai to Godowlia in Varanasi. Godowlia is the main market place and most happening place. An auto rickshaw takes Rs 200 from Mughalsarai station to godowlia in varanasi. A small car like Alto, Indica if available will take around Rs 400-450 for a drop. The rates are provided as on April, 2014. If travelling to/from '''Agra/Tundla''', Mughal Sarai is a more convenient station.
By Bus 
  • From Nepal: To get to Varanasi from Chitwan, Lumbini, Kathmandu and Pokhara is relatively simple and cheap. Get a bus to the bus park at Sunauli, from there take a rickshaw (200 NPR) to the border crossing, get your passport stamped on the Nepali side then walk through the border. The Indian immigration office is hidden away on the left hand side of the road after 100m. From here the bus stop is on the right hand side after 300m. Be sure to get the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfy and stop everywhere. The bus to Gorakhpur is 4 hours, when you arrive there walk straight ahead to the train station, from where you can pick up an 11pm overnight to Varanasi which should in theory arrive at 6am. Make sure you get off at Varanasi Junction, not Varanasi City. There are other services that run earlier if 11pm is inconvenient. A first class non-AC from Gorakhpur to Varanasi Junction is around 400 IRP.
  • To Nepal / Northern India: There are daily buses to the Nepal border and other points around northern India. Local buses leave from the main bus station near the train station, almost every hour in the morning and one in the evening, to Gorakhpur (5-6 hrs, Rs 120), from where buses leave to the Nepali border at Sunauli (~3 hrs, Rs 56).
  • There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8hrs), Gorakhpur (4hrs), Kanpur (9hrs - Rs. 195) and Allahabad(3hrs - Rs. 88).
  • There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8hrs), Gorakhpur (8hrs) Kanpur (9hrs - Rs. 195) and Allahabad(3hrs - Rs. 88).


By Flight 

  • Allow plenty of time to get to the airport, it can take an hour or more depending on traffic. A taxi (from the pre-paid stand just outside the terminal) should run around Rs 600-700 (plus Rs40 parking toll) or about Rs 125 in an auto-rickshaw, but most drivers will want to charge double since they will likely be coming back empty.


Places To see 


Get Around 

  • Many of the sights are in the tiny narrow winding alleys of the waterfront. ''Rickshaws'' are only useful for longer trips across town or to the train stations. A cycle-rickshaw from the Junction train station to Dasaswamedh Ghat (or Godaulia if the road is closed) should cost Rs 20, an auto rickshaw about Rs 70. From Godaulia to Assi Ghat is Rs 10. Again, these prices are bound to change with changes in the value of the rupee''Taxis'' exist but traffic makes them impractical. There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station, however if you go with this option make sure to keep your prepaid receipt until the end of your journey, or your driver may not take you the whole way. Rs55 is enough to get to the old town.
  • ''By foot'' is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters.  For better orientation, walk into any book store and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list of all the ghats and their historical background.
  • A car can be hired to visit Maa Durga temple, Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, Ramnagar Fort and Sarnath. A small car like Indigo, Indica, Alto etc. will take Rs 1,600 for AC and Rs 1,300 for Non-AC round trip. A luxury vehicle like Innova, Xylo, Scorpio takes Rs 2,200-2,500. If one starts at 7 am can return before 2 pm after covering all the above mentioned places. A car can be asked from the hotel travel desk or any car rental companies.

 See 

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations; the joy of the  experience comes from watching the spectacle of life and death- on the river and in the eyes of the people who come to the Ganga- as well as in  meandering through the alleys of the old city, trying to fathom the ways of a very mature culture.

  • ''Vishwanath Temple''   also known as the Golden Temple, security is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was re-constructed by Hindu kings who followed them.
  • ''Kaal Bhairav Temple''   is the temple for ''Kaal Bhairav''   a dreaded form of the Lord in Shiva avatar symbolizing death. Its a tradition to buy a black thread (cost about Rs. 15 per 50 threads as of Sep 2009), sanctify  it in the shrine, then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as protection against evil.
  • ''Nepali Hindu Temple''   A small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture, near Lalita Ghat.
  • ''Alamagir Mosque''   overlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.
  • ''Banaras Hindu University''   a very green and peaceful campus. Few actually know that this University was built during the Indian freedom struggle and is known as Oxford of the East. This is the largest residential university of Asia, with 124 departments. You can also visit Bharat Kala Bhavan, a museum of Art and Archeology inside the university. There is also a huge white marbled temple called Vishwanath Temple which was built by Pt. Madan Mohan Malaviya, the founder of the university.
  • ''Sarnath''   It is believed that in Sarnath Buddha gave his first sermon to his disciples after getting enlightenment. There is also a Museum in Sarnath. The location is also known as Deer Park. Sarnath is 13 Km from Varanasi and is very peaceful. Several Asian countries have built Buddhist temples there following their own ancient architectural traditions.
  • ''Ram Nagar Fort''   the fort of the King of Kashi which is situated at the other side of the river.
  • ''Gauri Matha Temple''   The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. Its a tradition to visit here just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to God saying that the virtues of donating the shells goes to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the ganga. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom.
  • ''Sankat Mochan Temple''   The famous Hanuman temple, home to thousands of monkeys. Securiy is tight, mobile phones, keys etc. are not allowed inside the temple as a result of moslem terrorist bomb blasts; and as you enter you will be greeted by the sight of hundreds of monkeys on the premises. Beware- they may snatch from you if they see you carrying boxes or packets of food. Inside the temple you will find stacks of hanuman chalisa text for the use of devotees.  
  • ''Man Mandir Observatory''
  • ''Tulsi Manas Temple''
  • ''Durga Temple''

 Ghats 
  • Floating Away : While the use of ghats for cremation is well known, they are also used to give last rites to those who do not need cleansing by fire to purify their soul, including young children and pregnant women. Instead, their bodies are wrapped in cloth, weighted with stones and eased into the Ganga. However, it is fairly common for the ropes to give way, resulting in putrefying corpses washing up on the east shore across from the city. Steer clear if squeamish.
A ''Ghat'' is a series of steps leading down to the river, used by bathers and pilgrims, and riverside Varanasi consists of a long sequence of these.  It's generally possible to walk directly between them, though near Manikarnika Ghat you'll have to navigate your way up and around through the alleyways.  The best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.

Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as '''burning ghats''', where bodies are cremated (in full view) before their ashes are eased into the Ganga.
Some of the main ghats, from north to south:
  • ''Panchganga Ghat''   the meeting of the five rivers.
  • ''Manikarnika Ghat''   the main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs. (Note: scams are plentiful here; see the "Staying Safe" section)
  • ''Dasaswamedh Ghat''   the main ghat and site of the large evening ''Aarti''  only reachable by foot at some times of day, about a 5 minute walk south from Godulia.
  • ''Rana Ghat''
  • ''Kedar Ghat''   brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic.
  • ''Narad Ghat''   the ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the legend of contention.
  • ''Harishchandra Ghat''   the cremation place were Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.
  • ''Hanuman Ghat''
  • ''Shivala Ghat''
  • ''Tulsi Ghat''  site of the large water purification plant.
  • ''Assi Ghat''   a popular place to stay with many hotels, restaurants and internet cafes.


Festivals 

  • Deepavali, or ''Diwali'', is a great time to be in Varanasi, with special  ceremonies in many temples. The once-a-year decorations and ''Aarti'' at the ghats are spectacular.
  • ''Shivaratri''  is another great time to be in Varanasi. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of "Hindustani" (a form of Indian classical music) that goes on night and day for about 72 hours. Since the date of the festival is decided by Hindu lunar calendar, it changes (per the western, or Gregorian, calendar) every year.

Do 

  • ''Bathe'' Over 60,000 people come down to the waters edge every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, reputed to have healing benefits. This is a fantastic site to see. However, due to sewage pipes discharging into the river along with sunken corpses, it is not recommended to join in. There is a risk of infection from numerous diseases and bacteria.
  • ''Boat rides'' are very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations in progress, and then return to Dasaswamedh and watch the evening ''aarti'' from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price down to around Rs 50/person per hour, but expect to be quoted much higher — the current bargained down 'foreign tourist' rate for a boat ride is Rs 300! In fact there is a price limit set by the city in 1998 but still in force today that sets a price range from Rs 50 for boats up to four seats to a maximum of 125 for very large boats. (That's per hour and boat not per person.) At Dasaswamedh there is even a huge sign (in Hindi only) alerting tourists to that fact. If you go Nishad Raj ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi, you can find a boat driver named Bhoomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats.

Buy 


  • Varanasi is famous for its fine ''silk''  it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and haggle, bargain hard.
  • If you are buying a silk scarf, make sure you ask if it is a pure silk scarf or artificial silk. Artificial is cheaper, and you should be able to purchase it for about 50 to 75 rupees (this will keep changing with time). But be prepared to hear 200 rupees for a fake one!! The real silk scarves can be bargain down to about 150 rupees or sometimes 100 rupees. Be prepared to hear 650 rupees as asking price.


Eat 


  • There are numerous food outlets and a very dynamic range in quality.  The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success. To get really authentic ''Banarasi Khana'' you're going to have to get to the main market area or, better, to have a Varanasi friend inviting you at home. Benares Dum Aloo is a local specialty, and the city is also known for its desserts. You can't go away from Varanasi without eating local specialities as ''aloo chaat'' and  ''pani puri'' and, in general, the street food. 
  • ''Paan'', a betel nut mixture usually containing tobacco, is not really food, but is something Varanasi is famous for all over India. 


Sleep 

  • The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats. This is where most foreigners hang out  and with good reason. In addition to the ghats and river, Varanasi's most famous temples and main market are all located in this area. Another choice is Sarnath, about 8km from Varanasi. It is a little removed  from 'the action' but much safer and calmer than Varanasi.

  • Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. Technically, it is not free.  The boat will take you half-way along the river and then let the boat load of passengers know that for the second-half there is a fee of 60 rupees per person. Those who do not want to continue can get out of the boat and walk back to their lodging.

  • Beware that Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that you fan of A/C is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.


Stay Safe 

Violent crime is rare, but still do be careful in the lanes after dark. Carry a lamp; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight, let alone in pitch dark, because of their broken paving stones and cows common.
Women especially need to dress conservatively and to be careful. Even taking precautions, expect to have the odd local young man try to quickly grope you and run away. Respond aggressively and loudly to try to discourage this behavior as much as possible.
Rickshaw/taxi scams are a norm in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded, or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of the Varanasi experience. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores, from which they receive commission. If calling for a pickup from a more respectable hostel, be wary that other taxi drivers may listen in to your phone conversation then tell another taxi driver who will pick you up pretending to be your hostel, then take you to a commision charging hostel.
As you approach Manikarnika Ghat you will probably be ushered toward a plain concrete building to view the funeral pyres. The person that leads you there will say that he is a volunteer at the hospice center and will tell you how he takes care of poor people that don't have enough money to buy wood for their funerary burning. He'll tell you that wood costs 300 rupees per kilogram (it's actually closer to 5 rupees per kilogram) and that most foreigners donate between 5 and 10 kilograms of wood to his center, at which point he'll ask for a donation from you. If it isn't obvious already, this is a scam. Either tell him you have no money or that you don't feel comfortable donating at the time.
Scam lodges such as Tiwari lodge have been known to offer you a cheap price on arrival but refuses to accept any payment until you leave, when you do your bill has magically quadrupled in price and the owner just plain rejects the initial price, it's best to pay day-by-day to prevent such scams.

Respect 

There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists tresspasing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river.
You can take photographs if it is from a distance ; most do not mind. There are touts who for a fee will "stop minding". Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local riff raff object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept ,withdraw it and photograph ! Call the police if necessary.
also as this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes/sandals at every point. so wear a flip flop which is easy to take off.

Story of The Legend


Nirvikar chaitanya and Sanatan Brahma have assumed the form of Saguna Vishwarupa from the initial Nirgun Roopa or form. The Shiva Shakti roopa became the Purusha (man) and Stree (the woman) again. Prakriti and Purusha (Nature and man) (Shiva-Shakti) were once ordained by Shiva to do tapas in the universe in order to create the best being. He specified the best place for this purpose. When a prayer was held, Nirgun Shiva, with His own powers and aura, created a wonderful city called Panchakoshi. Vishnu, who resided there, spent a lot of time praying to Shiva after which several watersprings originated there. Vishnu was amazed at this wonderous event, and even as he tilled his head, a gemstone fell from his ear. Because of this place, it was also called Manikarnika. The entire Panch Koshi area of Manikarnika waters were then gathered into the Trident by Shiva. Then from the navel of Vishnu was born a lotus flower with Brahma in it. Brahma was ordained by Shiva to create a world, at which Brahma created this wonderful world. It had fifty crore Yojanas of area and fourteen lokas. In order to save the lives of these who are bound by their own actions or karma. Shiva kept panchakoshi city away from the entire universe. In this city, Shiva Himself established the saviour Muktidayak JyotirLinga, which He can never leave. Shiva removed this very Kashi from His Trident and set it in this mortal world. It was not to be destroyed when Brahma’s day ends, but during Pralay i.e., final destruction of the world, Shiva saved it by keeping it safe in his trident. So the kashi is called avimukta kshetra. In Kashi, the Avimukteshwar Linga is there forever. Those who can never hope for salvation, attain Moksha here.

This holiest city of Panchakoshi, with its capacity to destroy every conceivable sin, is the vehicle of a special Moksha by the name “Samyugha”. That is the reason why this city which is ruled by Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesha, is the place, where even divines want to die. Sarwaguna from inside and Tamoguna from outside, are the qualities of Rudra here. When prayed to, Vishwanatha Bahagavan Sri Shankar made this abode and resided there with Parvati.

History of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple 

Varanasi, which was a pious place of pilgrimage for the hindus, soon became an eyesore and source of jealousy for the Muslims. From 1033 to 1669 AD Kashi came under several destructive attacks. Temples were demolished and Masjids built there instead. But due to the dedication of the Hindu devotees, the JyotirLinag pilgrimage place continued to develop. During the reign of the British and the Marathas, this place really developed well. Even the Jaina and Boudha monks helped to keep the place of the city intact.
The Kashi Vishweshwar temple as we see it now was built by Ahalya Devi Holkar in 1777 AD. In 1785 AD, the then King of Kashi, Mansaram and his son Belvant Singh built many more temples near Varanasi. In 1755 AD, the Avadh pantof pratinidhi (representative) got the old temple of Bindumadhava repaired and renovated it beautifully. The kalabhairava temple was built by Srimant Baji Rao Peshwa in 1852 AD.

King Ranjit Singh had the Kashi Vishwanath temple towers covered in gold. A huge bell hangs in the temple. It was donated by the King of Nepal. Surrounding Saranath, there are many Budhhist stupas, Viharas and Chaitra grihas. In 1931 AD the mahabodhi society had built a very beautiful Buddha temple in Saranath.

The Hindu devotees visit Kashi to make offering. Here they perform many rituals and consider themselves blessed. Along side, several foreign tourists visit this place regularly. Places worth seeing include Ghats, temples, tapobhoomi and the scenic beauty of the surroundings. Kashi Kshetra and Sri Vishweswara JyotirLinga are connected as the holiest shrines in the world. The Ganga water here is considered as the nectar of the earth. Dying in Kashi or performing the final rites is considered as the way to the Heavens. Kashi - Rameshwar(1) yatra is the prime pilgrimage for the Hindus.

Key Words : List of Jyotirlingas in India, History of Jyotirlingam, Poem of Jyotirlingam, Meaning of Jyotirlingam Poem




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