Kedareshwar Temple, Kedarnath, Uttarakhand, India

Kedareshwar Temple - The 11th Jyotirling

mahadriparshve cha tate ramantam sampujyamanam satatam munindraih |
surasurairyaa mahoragadhyaih kedaramisham shivamekamide ||

Kedarnath is one of the 4 Char Dham Hindu pilgrim centers in Uttarakhand, India. The town and the temple are open from May to October only to avoid heavy snowfall in winter. Specific dates are as per the Hindu Calendar and one needs to check for specific dates for each year. One can still visit when the town is shut down but one needs to be prepared for being on own amidst heavy snow fall. Gaurikund also shuts down in winter.

Kedareshwar Temple, Kedarnath, Uttarakhand

How to Reach

New Route To Kedarnath 

               New Route To Kedarnath 

With the massive destruction during the 2013 floods in Kedarnath, the old route ( 14 km ) Gaurikund - RamBara - Kedarnath was completely washed off.

The Government has decided on a few alternate routes to reach Kedarnath. One of this proposed route is from Sonprayag.

The new route is likely to follow the Sonprayag - Gaurikund - RamBara - Lincholi - Kedarnath way. This route is around 20 km in length, passing over an altitude of over 13,000 feet. The work done on this route is in progress.

The New Route is as Follows :

•  Rudraprayag - Sonprayag

• Sonprayag - Munkatia - Gaurikund - RamBara - local shuttle service by Government of Uttarakhand.

• RamBara - Lincholi - Kedarnath - 9 km Trek ( ponies and doli available ).

• Government has made facilities for stay of 500 - 500 people at one time in Lincholi and Kedarnath.

Old Route To Kedarnath ( Presently Closed After 2013 Havoc ) 

• Kedarnath (about 3400 m high) is approachable on foot from Gaurikund (about 2900m high), which is connected by road to Rishikesh, Kotdwar, Dehradun, Haridwar and other important hill stations of Garhwal and Kumaon region. Daily buses/taxis from Haridwar /Rishikesh/Dehradun ply during the pilgrim season (approx May to October) take you to Gauri Kund. The road ends here. Kedarnath is a steep 14 km trek from Gaurikund (horses and palanquins are available for hire). There is even a helicopter service during peak season, which is run by Pawan Hans Helicopter service.

• From Haridwar every day morning buses start to Gaurikund. Advance bookings can be made at GMOA (Garhwal Mandal owners Association) office in front of the railway station. It takes almost one full day journey to reach Gaurikund if there are no Landslides. Bus journey is very beautiful because most of the 240 kms is ghat road journey with many mountains around and river ganga following you through out the way.

• If you choose to drive your own vehicle, make sure it has good ground clearance as there are rocks strewn all over the route. A powerful engine will make life much easier. There are two parking lots just before Gaurikund (100m, 500m before Gaurikund). Getting space for private vehicles is tough, but can be managed after polite cajoling discussions with the caretakers. 5 km below Gaurikund, there is SonPrayag. There is fatak (gate) here to make sure vehicles move in one direction only from SonPrayag to Gaurikund. It ensures minimum traffic snarls, but adds 1-1.5 hrs to journey time should you end up on the stationary side. It would be advisable to park your vehicle at SonPrayag and hitch a ride to Gaurikund.

• As soon as you reach Gauri kund, the people who own mules will start asking you if you need a mule for trek to kedarnath. Don't commit anything to them. The going rates in 2012 are INR 500-800. Make sure your mule has been adequately rested before you start (it's a very steep climb) and that it has some experience of the route (mules run on autopilot if not controlled by the guide or you).

• Porters (pittheus in local language) are also available to carry your luggage up to Kedarnath and leave you free to walk up lighter. They can deliver to your hotel directly or walk with you.

• At Gaurikund, there are some privates guest houses to stay. GMVN guest house is usually the best option and bookings can be made online as well. You can also take a dip in the holy water from a hot spring. Its a great relief to take bath in hot water. Some may find it crowded.

• Kedarnath is 14kms from Gaurikund and you can choose to walk or take a mule. Older people take the ''doli'', which is carried by 4 hired people. If you can walk half a kilometer towards kedarnath you will find the office of booking mules and dolis. There will be plenty of people on the side ways asking you, if you need a mule. Its always better to book in that office because the mules which they give are good in health and strong.

• Once you start from Gaurikund, there is a concrete road to walk on and there is a small shop for every 200 meters where you can get some tea, chocolates, biscuits, maggi noodles etc., After 7kms , you reach a place called Rambara. There are couple of guest houses here to stay including one by GMVN. Most pilgrims take a  break here and eat some food and then resume the journey towards kedarnath. 

• The air gets thinner after Rambara and many people experience breathing trouble between Rambara and Kedarnath. This is particularly acute for people walking up. The ascent flattens out about a KM before Kedarnath. Thus, one climbs up about 1500 m in the 13 KM between Gaurikund and this point.

• The view is fantastic while moving towards temple but the dung of mules make you feel uncomfortable because of so many mules. Even though there are some people, who constantly clean the path, it still smells little bad. A good pair of binoculars would make the journey even more breath-taking.

Places To See 

The Temple itself is quite an exquisite example of stone work. Houses the lingam, a symbol of the Hindu God Shiva. The temple is located among astonishing mountain landscape surrounded by peaks that are over 6000 m in elevation.

 Behind the shrine lies Adi Shankaracharya's samadhi, where he is believed to have taken rest after establishing the four dhams at an early age of 32 years. At a visible distance from the shrine also lies an ancient Bhairav Temple, beyond which one comes out to green glades and tiny streams, fed by the surrounding (and approachable) glaciers.

Treks leading out from Kedarnath are strenuous. If one arrives here early in the season, glaciers blocking these routes would be a common occurrence - and quite risky since one can never tell the thickness of the ice.

Gandhi Sarovar (lake)   and the Chorabari Glacier that feeds the lake - lie the closest, at a distance of 3.5km, which makes for atleast an hour of trek. Gandhi Sarovar is named after Mahatma Gandhi as his ashes were immersed here. There is a very nice waterfall on the way. The glacier retreats by the end of the season whereas there is snow/ice all over the route early in the season.

Vasuki Tal  which is famous for its blue waters - is at 8km, and involves very difficult climb and crossing glaciers. It generally takes one 4-5 hours to reach there, so set out early.

Do

• Puja and aarti at the temple if you are a Hindu. Treks to the adjacent valleys will take you through untouched forests and desolate paths. Some pilgrims even take a dip in the icy waters of Mandakini.

Accommodation

• Many ashrams and dharamshalas provide cheap accommodation. There are also many private hotels and restaurants although most have only basic facilities. Also beware that Kedarnath can be extremely crowded during peak pilgrim season. In 2011, the going rates for private guest hotel rooms are in the range of INR 600-1000 for one day stay, with additional charges (INR 20-40) for each bucket of hot water. The state-run guest house is generally booked throughout, so arrive early if you want options. Its fairly empty in Sept - Oct and charges Rs 960 (in 2012) per night. It has provision for central heating and running hot water but neither really work.

Eat 

• Kedarnath is a strictly vegetarian place. There are a couple of restaurants (dhabas in local parlance), on the path leading straight up to the holy temple, which run from 4 AM to midnight and serve basic Indian food. Do not expect express standards of service or hygiene. Always choose cooked food, prefer boiled. An average meal costs around INR 100, though cheaper options are available.

Temple Timings and Rules

• The temple is closed from 3 PM to 5 PM so plan to be at temple before 3 PM. Before 3 PM, visitors can touch the idol and do ''Abhishek'' with Ghee. After 5 PM, no one can touch the idol but can get ''Darshan'' from a distance. At this time, the idol is in an Emperor's costume. If you get late beyond 5 PM, don't try to get back to Gaurikund on the same day. The path is very risky and many a times, light system fails. Weather also changes frequently. There are many dharmshalas to stay at night. After that, you can attend the morning Aarti,  participate in ''Abhishek'' and then start the descend.

Story of The Legend 

Among the twelve JyotirLingas of Bhagwan Shankara, the one at Kedarnath is located in the snow-covered area of the Himalayas. This JyotirLinga can be visited only during six months in a year. From the month of Vaisakha to Ashwin (Ashwiyaja) is the time when pilgrims can make the journey to this. The rest of the year it is too cold and the Himalayas are covered in snow. Therefore, the Kedarnath temple remains closed for pilgrims.

During the month of Karthik, due to snowfall, Sri Kedareshwar idol is brought out of the temple after lighting a ghee lamp, “Nanda Deepa”. Then the temple is closed for the winter. From the month of Karthik to Chaitra Sri Kedareshwar’s abode is shifted to the Urvi Math, which is in the valley. In the month of Vaishakh, when the temple doors are opened the lamp “Nanda Deepa” still keeps burning. People come to see this glorious lamp and the Shiva devotees consider themselves blessed.

Hardwar is considered to be the gateway to heaven, the magic city or Mayapur. Ahead of Haridwar, there are holy places like Rishikesh, Devprayag, Sonprayag and Triyugi Narayan, Gaurikund. To Kedarnath one has to pass through these places. Some part of the journey is motorable and the rest has to be walked upon. This part of the way through the Himalaya is very difficult. But devotees go through all this with dedication and determination. They overcome all the difficulties with perseverance.

To climb the steep path, some use mules, some use Dolis (swing like carriages) and some others use walking sticks. There are arrangements for acquiring these here. There are chowltries and resting places in between for the tired yatris. At Gaurikund, the pilgrims get to have a bath in the hot springs there. After this, they take a Darshan of the head-less Ganesha. It is here in Gaurikund, that Lord Shiva cut off Ganesha’s head with the trident and later replaced with the head of an elephant.

A little farther from Gaurikund, near the snow-clad mountains, on the banks of River Mandakini, the Kedarnath temple of the glorious JyotirLinga of Lord Shankar becomes visible. This is where Lord Shankar had made His abode. The shivalinga here is self-manifest and not installed by anyone. It is said that this is the hind part of Mahisha (he-buffalo).

Purana of Kedarnath

During the war between the Kauravas and Pandavas, their own kith and kin got killed. In order to absolve themselves of this sin, the Pandavas went for a pilgrimage. But Lord Vishweshwara was away in Kailasa in the Himalayas. On learning this, the Pandavas, left Kashi. They reached the Himalayas via Hardwar. They saw Lord Shankar from a distance. But Lord Shankara hid from them. Then Dharmaraj said: “Oh, Lord, You have hidden yourself from our sight because we have sinned. But, we will seek You out somehow. Only after we take your Darshan would our sins be washed away. This place, where You have hidden Yourself will be known as Guptkashi and become a famous shrine.”

From Guptakashi (Rudraprayag), the Pandavas went ahead they reached Gaurikund in the Himalayas valleys. They wandered there in search of Lord Shankara. While doing so Nakul and Sahadev found a he-buffalo. It was unique to look at.

Then! Bheema went after the buffalo with his mace. The buffalo was clever and Bheema could not catch it. But Bheema managed to hit the buffalo with his mace. The buffalo had its face hidden in a crevice-in the earth. Bheema started to pull it by its tail. In this tug-of war, the face of the buffalo went straight to Nepal, leaving its hind part in Kedar. The face of the buffalo is known as Pashupatinath in Nepal.

On this hind part of Mahesha, a glorious JyotirLinga appeared. Lord Shankara appeared from this great light. He appeared before the pandavas. By getting a Darshan of Lord Shankar, the pandavas were absolved of their sins. The Lord told the Pandavas, “From now on, I will remain here as a triangular shaped JyotirLinga. By taking a Darshan of Kedarnath, devotees would attain piety”. Near Kedarnath, there are many symbols of the Pandavas Raja Pandu died here, when he tried to make love to Madri. This place is famous as Pandukeshwar. The tribals here perform a dance called “Pandav Nritya”. The mountain top where the Pandavas went to Swarga, is known as “Swargarohini”. When Dharmaraja leaving for Swarga, one of his fingers fell on the earth. At that palce, Dharmaraj installed a Shiva Linga, which is the size of the thumb.

To gain Mashisharupa, Shankara and Bheema fought with maces. Bheema was struck with remorse. He started to massage Lord Shankara’s body with ghee. In memory of this event, even today, this triangular Shiva JyotirLinga is massaged with ghee. Shankara is worshipped here in this manner. Water and Bel leaves are used for worship.

When Nar-narayan went to Badrika village and started the worship of Parthiva, Shiva appeared before them. A few days later, a pleased Shiva granted them some boons. Nar-narayan wished that for the welfare of the humanity, Shiva should remain there in his original form. Granting their wish, in the snow-clad Himalayas, in a place called Kedar, Mahesha himself stayed there as a Jyoti. Here, He is known as Kedareshwara.

By visiting Kedareshwar, sorrows do not come even in dreams. By worshipping Shambara (Kedareshwar) Pandavas were rid of all their sorrows. Badri-Keshwar’s darshan rids one of the material ties. Whoever gives Dan (alms) at Kedareshwar, just gets assimilated into Shivroop.

Around the main Kedarnath temples, there are many holy places. At the back, there is the Samadhi of Shankaracharya. A little further up, there is dangerous cliff called Bhariguptan (Bhairav Udan). One has to pass through dreadful, and life threatening circumstances. But what one gets is not Mrityu (Death) but Moksha (Salvation). On all the eight sides of the temple, there are eight shrines.

In short, it is to say that in order to visit Kedarnath, JyotirLing, one has to go through a treacherous route. But when people are determined and dedicated, they never get tired. Every one keeps chanting Jay Kedarnath! Jay Kedarnath!!

Key Words : List of Jyotirlingas in India, History of Jyotirlingam, Poem of Jyotirlingam, Meaning of Jyotirlingam Poem

Trimbakeshwar Temple, Nashik, Maharashtra, India

Trimbakeshwar Temple - The 10th Jyotirling

sahyadrishirshe vimale vasantam godavaritirapavitradeshe |

yaddharshanatpatakamashu nasham prayati tam tryambakamishamide ||

Trimbakeshwar Jyotirlinga  the twelve JyotirLingas of Lord Shankara, the tenth one is known as Trimbakeshwar . Tryambak is near Nasik in Maharashtra. This great JyotirLinga on the banks of Gautami has a unique form. The Lord in this temple’s Grabhagriha is not worshipped with Abhisheka with water (Jalahari) unlike others. There is just a bottom part of the pounding stone (Ukhali), instead, like a hole. In that hole there are three Lingas shaped like the Thumbs. Hence Trimbakeshwar,  Of these three Lingas, the Linga of Mahesha has a constant shower of water from an orifice above. It is a natural source of water coming down as Abhisheka for the Lord.

Trimbakeshwar Temple, Nashik, Maharashtra 

How to Reach

By Bus 

• Nashik is 180 Kilometres from Mumbai (Bombay). There are frequent buses to Nashik from Mumbai/South Central Dadar in Mumbai. It takes 4 to 5 hours by road. If you are not around Dadar, you can still take buses from Borivali (a key place on Western Railway Line) OR Thane (a key place on Central Railway Line). Also, a suburban railway (CR) to Kasara can be taken from few suburban railway stations beyond Dadar (like Kurla, Thane or even beyond). Once at Kasara, there are loads of connecting buses to Nashik and many other places, along with ample number of share-taxis (INR 50-60 per adult passenger, but with cramped sitting). (Kindly note there is no taxi service available in the late night. You can get held up after reaching Kasara Railway Station till the next morning)

By Train 

• Trains called 'Panchavati Express' and 'Godavari Express' also ply daily between Mumbai and Nashik. Word of caution, Nashik is on Central Railway line and Dadar Station is a sort of junction place for Central Railway and Western Railway, so make sure that you are at right side of the station (that is, East-side for Central Railway). There is also a daily train service between Pune and Nashik. It may be noted that the Railway Station (called "Nasik Road") is about 10 Kilometres  away from the main city. However, there are sufficiently frequent services of buses, auto-rickshaws, shared-taxis etc are available at fairly low fares.

• From South we get number of connecting trains from Chennai, Bangalore, Vijayawada, Hyderabad.

Places To See

• ''Trimbakeshwar'' (One of the 12 Jyotirlingas), straight ahead on Trimbak road. This is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India and is the most sacred place in Nashik. Near by is also Brahma giri where lord Shiva performed tandav dance.

• ''Sita Gufaa''   Caves where Lord Ram and Sita worshipped Lord Shiva during their exile.  The shivlinga is still present at that same spot. It is believed that Ravana kidnapped Sita from this place.

• ''Tapovan''   Tapobhumi, Surpanakha's nose fell here, Tasty Guavas, try them out.

• ''Panchavati''   The most sacred place on Earth.The place where five sacred Banyan trees are still present. All important temples are located in this area.

• ''Kalaram Temple''   An important temple and landmark in panchavati area.

• ''Ganga Ghat''   Ramkunda, Panchavati.

• ''Mineral Museum (Gargoti Sangrahalaya)''   Sinnar , Nashik . very precious different types of stones you can see here.

• ''Pandav Leni''   Pandav Caves. located on Nashik- Mumbai highway near Pathardi phata.

• ''Phalke Smarak''   Excellent views, landscape, musical fountain, video songs, Buddha smarak, water park. located on foot of Pandav Caves hill. A reliable place where most of the people in nashik spend their weekend evenings.

• ''Jain Mandir''   has a 12 ton Panchdhatu idol of Bhagwan Mahavir. located at Vilholi on Nashik- Mumbai highway.

• ''Veda Mandir''   located on Trimbak road.

• ''Chambhar Leni''   Temple of Bhagwan Mahavir on a hillock inside a cave. Located on Dindori Road. 

• ''Muktidham''   big temple, picnic spot located at Nashik Road.

• ''Bhakti Dham''   a temple. located on Peth Naka.

• ''Someshwar''   temples, picnic spot, boating , waterfall. located on Gangapur road.

• ''Sundarnarayan Temple''.

• ''College Road'  happening place in Nashik. Malls, Restaurants, Shopping, Multiplex, Bliss Juice Bar, McDonald's, Cafe Coffee Day.

• ''Navshya Ganapati''   A temple situated on banks of Godavari River, very scenic views.

• ''Deolali Camp Cantonment Board'', Artillery centre - Deolali camp's, Lahawit market is for shopping, Deolali South has Khandoba temple hill, golf course, sun rise & set point as well.

• ''Tarangan'' , Trimbak Road . This planetarium is named after late shri Yashwantrao Chavan and was recently inaugurated by President Mrs Pratibha Patil. Daily 3 shows are conducted 13.30 in English, 15.30 in Hindi and 17.30 in Marathi.

• ''Anjaneri Parvat'' near Trimbakeshwar is well known for waterfalls during monsoon season.   
• * Bird Sanctuary ''' Nandur-Madhmeshwar''' near Niphad - a mesmerizing place for nature and bird lovers.

Eat 

• There are good restaurants all over the city. Coffee Shops/Cafes on College Road: Bliss Juice Bar , Cafe Bollywood , 12 to 12 ,Friendship , Cafe Coffee Day. 12 to 12 is good restaurant for western cuisines.

Accommodation

• In General people won't prefer to stay. As Nashik Darshan is made from Shirdi as daily trip.

Story of The Legend 

Ahalya’s husband, Gautama was doing Tapas or penance on the Dakshina Mountain. It did not rain there for a hundred years and the land was drying up and life forms disappearing. Seeing these conditions of drought, the residents, the saints, and all the birds and animals fled from there. Saint Gautam did a great Mangalik tapas through Pranayama for six long months. Varuna, the deva of rains, was pleased and appeared before Gautama, who in turn asked for water. At the behest of Varuna, Gautam dug a hole on his hand. With the help of Varuna’s miraculous power, it filled with water. Varuna said, “Due to the power of your penance, this hole would be an unending source of water “Akshaya”. It will become famous by your name. It will augment all holy rituals like Yagna, Dana, Tapa, Homa Shraadha, and worship of Gods. After this water was thus acquired, the saints started making preparations for the Yagna and the production of “Breehika”.

Once when the disciples of Gautama went to fetch some water, from that waterhole, just then some of the saints wives were also there for the same purpose. They insisted on taking water first. The disciples of Gautama called Gautama’s wife. She intervened and allowed her husband’s disciples to fetch water. The wives of the Rishis felt insulted at this and complained to their husbands and while doing so added a few lies here and there. The great saints at once started the worship of Ganesha as an initial Puja in sheer scheme of vendetta. When Ganesha appeared before them and granted some boons, they asked for the power of being able to insult and chase away Gautama, as an undesirable person from there. Ganesha understood that Gautama was very helpful by nature, tried to persuade the saints from getting their way. He knew that, but for Gautama’s efforts, the saints would be craving for even a drop of water. But the saints would have none of it. Reluctantly, Ganesha had to accode to the request of the adamant Rishis, but warned them to be ready to face the consequences of angering a great saint like Gautama.

One day, when Gautama went to get some “Breehi”, he saw a thin, starving cow there. Just when he lifted a little twig to show away the cow, the cow fell dead. The other Rishis caught the opportunity and accused Gautama of slaying a cow “Gohatya”. They insulted him and said that he must leave that palce immediately in order to save it from the aftermath of Gohaty. Gautama became very sad and left feeling greatly depressed.

Gautama wanted to absolve himself of the sin of Gohatya “Cow slaughter”. He thus resorted to the method of Tapas recommended by great saints. He began the difficult task of bringing Ganga water with the power of his Tapas, take bath with that water and chant Shiva mantras a crore times and worship the Parthiva Linga. Shiva was pleased and told him that he is indeed a pure soul and a great Mahatma. A great injustice was done to him, Shiva told him that he could ask for some boons. Gautama asked for Ganga, which would be of great help to the humanity. Shiva gave Ganga to Gautama, in the form of Tatwarupa Avishishta Jal. After taking the water, Gautama requested Shiva to absolve him of the sin of cow slaughter. Shiva purified Gautama and wanted to go back to His abode after that. But he told the Lord to remain on the earth till the end of Kaliyuga. Ganga prayed to him and requested him to stay on the earth, along with his consort Parvati. For the welfare of the world, Lord Shiva granted Ganga her wish.

Ganga wanted to know from Lord Shiva, how people will know about her greatness. The Rishis said that until Brihaspati stays on the Simha Rashi (Leo), we will stay here on your banks and will take a holy dip in your waters thrice a day before taking the Darshan of Shiva. Only by doing so, would we able to war our sins. On hearing this Lord Shiva and Ganga stayed there. Ganga has also come to be known as Gautami and the Linga came to be known as Tryambaka.

The river which gave away cows as Go-Daan became Godavari. Ganga who came on the request of Gautama became Gautam Ganga. That was the auspicious time of Brahmagiri, the time in between, when the Kurmavatar was over and before the assumption of Varahavatar, the Sanghiparva. The planet Guru (Jupiter) was in the sign of Simha (Leo), Magha Shuddha Dashami, Thursday after noon, when Gautami Ganga was born. The area of Brahmagiri too looks like the Lingamurthy. From the tip, the water of Gautami Ganga flows.

Other Specialities of Trimbakeshwar Temple 

The spring at Brahmagiri from where Godavari comes out, is known as Gangadwar. The Ganga water flows from a rock shaped like a cow face, constantly. The temple of Godavari mata is located here. The idol looks happy and peaceful. The Varaha Teertha is close by.

After emanating from Gangadwar, the river Godavari thins down and almost disappears, only to appear again at Tahalhati. In order to prevent it from disappearing, Gautam Rishi threw Darbhas on all four sides. Because of this, Godavari flows in Kushavarti. The Kushavarti Maha Teerth is a circle of 27 meters. It is built very strong. There are steps on all four sides to facilitate going down to the waters.

At the time of Simhasta (in Leo), every 12 years, a Kumbhmela is held here. Lakhs of people take a holy dip in Kushavarta. On all the four sides of Kushavartha corridors are built. Beautiful statues are also carved here in the Brahmagiri Talhati, near Kushavarti, there is a big lake called Ganga Sagar.

On the parikrama path, there are beautiful places like Ram Teerth. Prayag Teerth and Nrisimha Teerth etc, The Peshwa kings planted trees at every 25 hand distance. During the reign of the Peshwas, criminals were asked to do the Parikrama (circumambulation) of Brahmagiri as punishment.

The Tryambakeshwar JyotirLinga is unique, great, holy and wonderful place of pilgrimage.

Key Words : List of Jyotirlingas in India, History of Jyotirlingam, Poem of Jyotirlingam, Meaning of Jyotirlingam Poem

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India

Kashi Vishwanath Temple - The 9th Jyotirling

sanandamanandavane vasanta manandakandam hatapapavrindam |

varanasinathamanathanatham shrivishvanatham sharanam prapadye ||

"Varanasi" or "Benares" or "Kashi" is a historical city in northern India. The city is sacred to Hindus and also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. In many ways Varanasi epitomizes the very best and worst aspects of India, and it can be a little overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganges at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world.  People of Hindu Religion believe that Varanasi is a must see destination for each individual before they leave this planet.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Ghats on the bank of River Ganges, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

How To Reach

• Varanasi is well connected by train and bus, with multiple of each heading in every direction daily.  The trains and buses are dirty and overcrowded by Western standards. The people, however, are warm and accommodate westerners who are unfamiliar with their customs and don't take offense when you don't follow their ways.

By Train  

• Trains are the easiest way to reach Varanasi, with multiple daily services from cities including Delhi, Agra, Lucknow, Mumbai and Kolkata. And weekly services from Chennai, Vijayawada, Hyderabad, Bangalore and Thiruvananthapuram.

• Varanasi is served by two major railway stations. Many trains arrive at ''Varanasi Junction (IR station code : BSB)'' in the heart of the city, and many others arrive at ''Mughal Sarai Junction (IR station code : MGS)'', about 15 km east of the city. It is a 40 min drive from Mughalsarai to Godowlia in Varanasi. Godowlia is the main market place and most happening place. An auto rickshaw takes Rs 200 from Mughalsarai station to godowlia in varanasi. A small car like Alto, Indica if available will take around Rs 400-450 for a drop. The rates are provided as on April, 2014. If travelling to/from '''Agra/Tundla''', Mughal Sarai is a more convenient station.

By Bus 

• From Nepal: To get to Varanasi from Chitwan, Lumbini, Kathmandu and Pokhara is relatively simple and cheap. Get a bus to the bus park at Sunauli, from there take a rickshaw (200 NPR) to the border crossing, get your passport stamped on the Nepali side then walk through the border. The Indian immigration office is hidden away on the left hand side of the road after 100m. From here the bus stop is on the right hand side after 300m. Be sure to get the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfy and stop everywhere. The bus to Gorakhpur is 4 hours, when you arrive there walk straight ahead to the train station, from where you can pick up an 11pm overnight to Varanasi which should in theory arrive at 6am. Make sure you get off at Varanasi Junction, not Varanasi City. There are other services that run earlier if 11pm is inconvenient. A first class non-AC from Gorakhpur to Varanasi Junction is around 400 IRP.

• To Nepal / Northern India: There are daily buses to the Nepal border and other points around northern India. Local buses leave from the main bus station near the train station, almost every hour in the morning and one in the evening, to Gorakhpur (5-6 hrs, Rs 120), from where buses leave to the Nepali border at Sunauli (~3 hrs, Rs 56).

• There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8hrs), Gorakhpur (4hrs), Kanpur (9hrs - Rs. 195) and Allahabad(3hrs - Rs. 88).

• There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8hrs), Gorakhpur (8hrs) Kanpur (9hrs - Rs. 195) and Allahabad(3hrs - Rs. 88).

By Flight 

• ''Varanasi Airport''  is about 25km from the city center. Air India [http://www.airindia.com/], JetKonnect [http://www.jetkonnect.com/], SpiceJet [http://www.spicejet.com/] and IndiGo [http://www.goindigo.in/] all have daily flights to Delhi and there are daily flights to Mumbai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Khajuraho and Visakhapatnam on JetKonnect , Air India, SpiceJet and IndiGo. 

• Allow plenty of time to get to the airport, it can take an hour or more depending on traffic. A taxi (from the pre-paid stand just outside the terminal) should run around Rs 600-700 (plus Rs40 parking toll) or about Rs 125 in an auto-rickshaw, but most drivers will want to charge double since they will likely be coming back empty.

Places To see 

Get Around 

• Many of the sights are in the tiny narrow winding alleys of the waterfront. ''Rickshaws'' are only useful for longer trips across town or to the train stations. A cycle-rickshaw from the Junction train station to Dasaswamedh Ghat (or Godaulia if the road is closed) should cost Rs 20, an auto rickshaw about Rs 70. From Godaulia to Assi Ghat is Rs 10. Again, these prices are bound to change with changes in the value of the rupee''Taxis'' exist but traffic makes them impractical. There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station, however if you go with this option make sure to keep your prepaid receipt until the end of your journey, or your driver may not take you the whole way. Rs55 is enough to get to the old town.

• ''By foot'' is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters.  For better orientation, walk into any book store and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list of all the ghats and their historical background.

• A car can be hired to visit Maa Durga temple, Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, Ramnagar Fort and Sarnath. A small car like Indigo, Indica, Alto etc. will take Rs 1,600 for AC and Rs 1,300 for Non-AC round trip. A luxury vehicle like Innova, Xylo, Scorpio takes Rs 2,200-2,500. If one starts at 7 am can return before 2 pm after covering all the above mentioned places. A car can be asked from the hotel travel desk or any car rental companies.

See 

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations; the joy of the  experience comes from watching the spectacle of life and death- on the river and in the eyes of the people who come to the Ganga- as well as in  meandering through the alleys of the old city, trying to fathom the ways of a very mature culture.

• ''Vishwanath Temple''   also known as the Golden Temple, security is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was re-constructed by Hindu kings who followed them.

• ''Kaal Bhairav Temple''   is the temple for ''Kaal Bhairav''   a dreaded form of the Lord in Shiva avatar symbolizing death. Its a tradition to buy a black thread (cost about Rs. 15 per 50 threads as of Sep 2009), sanctify  it in the shrine, then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as protection against evil.

• ''Nepali Hindu Temple''   A small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture, near Lalita Ghat.

• ''Alamagir Mosque''   overlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.

• ''Banaras Hindu University''   a very green and peaceful campus. Few actually know that this University was built during the Indian freedom struggle and is known as Oxford of the East. This is the largest residential university of Asia, with 124 departments. You can also visit Bharat Kala Bhavan, a museum of Art and Archeology inside the university. There is also a huge white marbled temple called Vishwanath Temple which was built by Pt. Madan Mohan Malaviya, the founder of the university.

• ''Sarnath''   It is believed that in Sarnath Buddha gave his first sermon to his disciples after getting enlightenment. There is also a Museum in Sarnath. The location is also known as Deer Park. Sarnath is 13 Km from Varanasi and is very peaceful. Several Asian countries have built Buddhist temples there following their own ancient architectural traditions.

• ''Ram Nagar Fort''   the fort of the King of Kashi which is situated at the other side of the river.

• ''Gauri Matha Temple''   The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. Its a tradition to visit here just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to God saying that the virtues of donating the shells goes to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the ganga. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom.

• ''Sankat Mochan Temple''   The famous Hanuman temple, home to thousands of monkeys. Securiy is tight, mobile phones, keys etc. are not allowed inside the temple as a result of moslem terrorist bomb blasts; and as you enter you will be greeted by the sight of hundreds of monkeys on the premises. Beware- they may snatch from you if they see you carrying boxes or packets of food. Inside the temple you will find stacks of hanuman chalisa text for the use of devotees.  

• ''Man Mandir Observatory''

• ''Tulsi Manas Temple''

• ''Durga Temple''

Ghats 

• Floating Away : While the use of ghats for cremation is well known, they are also used to give last rites to those who do not need cleansing by fire to purify their soul, including young children and pregnant women. Instead, their bodies are wrapped in cloth, weighted with stones and eased into the Ganga. However, it is fairly common for the ropes to give way, resulting in putrefying corpses washing up on the east shore across from the city. Steer clear if squeamish.

A ''Ghat'' is a series of steps leading down to the river, used by bathers and pilgrims, and riverside Varanasi consists of a long sequence of these.  It's generally possible to walk directly between them, though near Manikarnika Ghat you'll have to navigate your way up and around through the alleyways.  The best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.

Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as '''burning ghats''', where bodies are cremated (in full view) before their ashes are eased into the Ganga.

Some of the main ghats, from north to south:

• ''Panchganga Ghat''   the meeting of the five rivers.

• ''Manikarnika Ghat''   the main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs. (Note: scams are plentiful here; see the "Staying Safe" section)

• ''Dasaswamedh Ghat''   the main ghat and site of the large evening ''Aarti''  only reachable by foot at some times of day, about a 5 minute walk south from Godulia.

• ''Rana Ghat''

• ''Kedar Ghat''   brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic.

• ''Narad Ghat''   the ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the legend of contention.

• ''Harishchandra Ghat''   the cremation place were Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.

• ''Hanuman Ghat''

• ''Shivala Ghat''

• ''Tulsi Ghat''  site of the large water purification plant.

• ''Assi Ghat''   a popular place to stay with many hotels, restaurants and internet cafes.

Festivals 

• Deepavali, or ''Diwali'', is a great time to be in Varanasi, with special  ceremonies in many temples. The once-a-year decorations and ''Aarti'' at the ghats are spectacular.

• ''Shivaratri''  is another great time to be in Varanasi. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of "Hindustani" (a form of Indian classical music) that goes on night and day for about 72 hours. Since the date of the festival is decided by Hindu lunar calendar, it changes (per the western, or Gregorian, calendar) every year.

Do 

• ''Bathe'' Over 60,000 people come down to the waters edge every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, reputed to have healing benefits. This is a fantastic site to see. However, due to sewage pipes discharging into the river along with sunken corpses, it is not recommended to join in. There is a risk of infection from numerous diseases and bacteria.

• ''Boat rides'' are very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations in progress, and then return to Dasaswamedh and watch the evening ''aarti'' from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price down to around Rs 50/person per hour, but expect to be quoted much higher — the current bargained down 'foreign tourist' rate for a boat ride is Rs 300! In fact there is a price limit set by the city in 1998 but still in force today that sets a price range from Rs 50 for boats up to four seats to a maximum of 125 for very large boats. (That's per hour and boat not per person.) At Dasaswamedh there is even a huge sign (in Hindi only) alerting tourists to that fact. If you go Nishad Raj ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi, you can find a boat driver named Bhoomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats.

Buy 

• Varanasi is famous for its fine ''silk''  it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and haggle, bargain hard.

• If you are buying a silk scarf, make sure you ask if it is a pure silk scarf or artificial silk. Artificial is cheaper, and you should be able to purchase it for about 50 to 75 rupees (this will keep changing with time). But be prepared to hear 200 rupees for a fake one!! The real silk scarves can be bargain down to about 150 rupees or sometimes 100 rupees. Be prepared to hear 650 rupees as asking price.

Eat 

• There are numerous food outlets and a very dynamic range in quality.  The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success. To get really authentic ''Banarasi Khana'' you're going to have to get to the main market area or, better, to have a Varanasi friend inviting you at home. Benares Dum Aloo is a local specialty, and the city is also known for its desserts. You can't go away from Varanasi without eating local specialities as ''aloo chaat'' and  ''pani puri'' and, in general, the street food. 

• ''Paan'', a betel nut mixture usually containing tobacco, is not really food, but is something Varanasi is famous for all over India. 

Sleep 

• The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats. This is where most foreigners hang out  and with good reason. In addition to the ghats and river, Varanasi's most famous temples and main market are all located in this area. Another choice is Sarnath, about 8km from Varanasi. It is a little removed  from 'the action' but much safer and calmer than Varanasi.

• Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. Technically, it is not free.  The boat will take you half-way along the river and then let the boat load of passengers know that for the second-half there is a fee of 60 rupees per person. Those who do not want to continue can get out of the boat and walk back to their lodging.

• Beware that Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that you fan of A/C is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.

Stay Safe 

Violent crime is rare, but still do be careful in the lanes after dark. Carry a lamp; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight, let alone in pitch dark, because of their broken paving stones and cows common.

Women especially need to dress conservatively and to be careful. Even taking precautions, expect to have the odd local young man try to quickly grope you and run away. Respond aggressively and loudly to try to discourage this behavior as much as possible.

Rickshaw/taxi scams are a norm in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded, or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of the Varanasi experience. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores, from which they receive commission. If calling for a pickup from a more respectable hostel, be wary that other taxi drivers may listen in to your phone conversation then tell another taxi driver who will pick you up pretending to be your hostel, then take you to a commision charging hostel.

As you approach Manikarnika Ghat you will probably be ushered toward a plain concrete building to view the funeral pyres. The person that leads you there will say that he is a volunteer at the hospice center and will tell you how he takes care of poor people that don't have enough money to buy wood for their funerary burning. He'll tell you that wood costs 300 rupees per kilogram (it's actually closer to 5 rupees per kilogram) and that most foreigners donate between 5 and 10 kilograms of wood to his center, at which point he'll ask for a donation from you. If it isn't obvious already, this is a scam. Either tell him you have no money or that you don't feel comfortable donating at the time.

Scam lodges such as Tiwari lodge have been known to offer you a cheap price on arrival but refuses to accept any payment until you leave, when you do your bill has magically quadrupled in price and the owner just plain rejects the initial price, it's best to pay day-by-day to prevent such scams.

Respect 

There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists tresspasing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river.

You can take photographs if it is from a distance ; most do not mind. There are touts who for a fee will "stop minding". Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local riff raff object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept ,withdraw it and photograph ! Call the police if necessary.

also as this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes/sandals at every point. so wear a flip flop which is easy to take off.

Story of The Legend

Nirvikar chaitanya and Sanatan Brahma have assumed the form of Saguna Vishwarupa from the initial Nirgun Roopa or form. The Shiva Shakti roopa became the Purusha (man) and Stree (the woman) again. Prakriti and Purusha (Nature and man) (Shiva-Shakti) were once ordained by Shiva to do tapas in the universe in order to create the best being. He specified the best place for this purpose. When a prayer was held, Nirgun Shiva, with His own powers and aura, created a wonderful city called Panchakoshi. Vishnu, who resided there, spent a lot of time praying to Shiva after which several watersprings originated there. Vishnu was amazed at this wonderous event, and even as he tilled his head, a gemstone fell from his ear. Because of this place, it was also called Manikarnika. The entire Panch Koshi area of Manikarnika waters were then gathered into the Trident by Shiva. Then from the navel of Vishnu was born a lotus flower with Brahma in it. Brahma was ordained by Shiva to create a world, at which Brahma created this wonderful world. It had fifty crore Yojanas of area and fourteen lokas. In order to save the lives of these who are bound by their own actions or karma. Shiva kept panchakoshi city away from the entire universe. In this city, Shiva Himself established the saviour Muktidayak JyotirLinga, which He can never leave. Shiva removed this very Kashi from His Trident and set it in this mortal world. It was not to be destroyed when Brahma’s day ends, but during Pralay i.e., final destruction of the world, Shiva saved it by keeping it safe in his trident. So the kashi is called avimukta kshetra. In Kashi, the Avimukteshwar Linga is there forever. Those who can never hope for salvation, attain Moksha here.

This holiest city of Panchakoshi, with its capacity to destroy every conceivable sin, is the vehicle of a special Moksha by the name “Samyugha”. That is the reason why this city which is ruled by Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesha, is the place, where even divines want to die. Sarwaguna from inside and Tamoguna from outside, are the qualities of Rudra here. When prayed to, Vishwanatha Bahagavan Sri Shankar made this abode and resided there with Parvati.

History of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple 

Varanasi, which was a pious place of pilgrimage for the hindus, soon became an eyesore and source of jealousy for the Muslims. From 1033 to 1669 AD Kashi came under several destructive attacks. Temples were demolished and Masjids built there instead. But due to the dedication of the Hindu devotees, the JyotirLinag pilgrimage place continued to develop. During the reign of the British and the Marathas, this place really developed well. Even the Jaina and Boudha monks helped to keep the place of the city intact.

The Kashi Vishweshwar temple as we see it now was built by Ahalya Devi Holkar in 1777 AD. In 1785 AD, the then King of Kashi, Mansaram and his son Belvant Singh built many more temples near Varanasi. In 1755 AD, the Avadh pantof pratinidhi (representative) got the old temple of Bindumadhava repaired and renovated it beautifully. The kalabhairava temple was built by Srimant Baji Rao Peshwa in 1852 AD.

King Ranjit Singh had the Kashi Vishwanath temple towers covered in gold. A huge bell hangs in the temple. It was donated by the King of Nepal. Surrounding Saranath, there are many Budhhist stupas, Viharas and Chaitra grihas. In 1931 AD the mahabodhi society had built a very beautiful Buddha temple in Saranath.

The Hindu devotees visit Kashi to make offering. Here they perform many rituals and consider themselves blessed. Along side, several foreign tourists visit this place regularly. Places worth seeing include Ghats, temples, tapobhoomi and the scenic beauty of the surroundings. Kashi Kshetra and Sri Vishweswara JyotirLinga are connected as the holiest shrines in the world. The Ganga water here is considered as the nectar of the earth. Dying in Kashi or performing the final rites is considered as the way to the Heavens. Kashi - Rameshwar(1) yatra is the prime pilgrimage for the Hindus.

Key Words : List of Jyotirlingas in India, History of Jyotirlingam, Poem of Jyotirlingam, Meaning of Jyotirlingam Poem

Aundha Nagnath, Darukavanam, Maharashtra, India

Aundha Nagnath Temple - The 8th Jyotirling

nagare atiramye vibhushitangam vividhaishcha bhogaih |

sadbhaktimuktipradamishamekam shrinaganatham sharanam prapadye ||

Aundha Nagnath at Darukavanam is a Jyotirlinga located in Basmat Subdivision of Hingoli District in Marathwada region of Maharashtra.

Aundha Nagnath, Darukavanam, Maharashtra

How to Reach

By Bus and Train  

• The town is well connected with Rail and bus routes. The nearest railway station is Nanded, Parbhani Jn. You get plenty of connecting trains to these stations.

• The State Transport of Maharashtra run Buses from Nanded, Parbhani. People travelling from south have direct buses from Hyderabad to Nanded. But always train journey is preferred.

 Places To See

• "Aundha Naganath Temple"  The architectural beauty of the Nagesh Temple is simply exquisite. This temple built with stones during the Pandava period is strong. The four walls of the temple are very strong and the corridors are large. The court hall is supported by eight pillars. It is oval shaped. Both this and the Nagesha Lingamurthy is located in the small internal Garbhagriha. 

• Here, there is no Nandi idol in front of Mahadeva. There is separate Nandikeshwara temple back of the main temple. On all the four sides of the main temple, smaller temples for the twelve JyotirLingas are constructed. Apart from these, VedavyasaLinga, bhandareshwar, Nilakanteshwar, Ganapati, Dattatreya, Muralimanohar, Dasavatar temple and idols etc., are there. In all, there are 108 Shiva temples and 68 shrines are located here.

• The structure of the Naganath temple is very beautiful. Inside it, there is another shrine called Runamochan teerth. Both these shrines are called “Mother-in-law- Daughter-in-law” shrines. Every 12 years, at the time of Kapila Shashti, kashi Ganga offering as “Padarpan” is performed. During this the water in the teerth kund looks crystal clear. Again at a specific time it becomes ‘Shivala Yukt”.

• Close to the Naganath temple, there are several statues of various divines. Besides these there are many more idols of animals, soldiers relating some stories. These stones idols are very beautiful to look at. At a huge corner, there is an idol of Paravti, who is sulking with Shiva trying to pacify her. This statue is amazing to look at with its stunning features. It is unmatched in its expression of emotions.

• Aurangazeb was intolerant towards other religions and wanted to destroy this Hindu temple. When he tried, thousands of bees came out of the temple and attacked Aurangazeb and his army. He left the demolition work midway and went away. The devotees rebuild the broken temple.

• Sometimes snakes with their hoods open can be seen standing guard on the Naganath Linga idol. When they drink the milk left in cups for them, is never known.

Accommodation 

• Local Hotels and Lodges offer accommodation at cheap prices.

Story of The Legend 

Pandavas came here during their Vanvas (life in forests) build a hermitage for themselves. Their cows used to go to the same river bank to drink water. After drinking wate, milk used to automatically flow into the river as if the cows were offering to the river. One day Bhima saw this miraculous event. He promptly told Dharmaraja about the same. Then Dharmaraja said, “Surely, some great God must be living in this river”. Then the Pandavas started removing the water from te river. The middle part of the river was so hot that the water there was boiling.

Bheema lifted his mace attacked the river thrice. The water gave way instantly. At the very moment , instead, blood started oozing like a spring. Lord Shankara’s Linga could be seen as the JyotirLinga.

On the west coast in an area of 16 Yojanas Daruka and Daruk need to live. The hermits were tired of being harassed by Daruk, and others. So they went and sought refuge with Orvamuni, who in turn cursed the Demons that they would be destroyed. The Devas launched an attack on the Demons. Now, the Demons began to worry. Daruka, who received some special boons from Parvati, lifted the entire forest, took it away on the path of the sky and put it in the middle of the sea. Only then, did the Demons relax and continue to live there. They used to go by boats and capture the hermits and imprison them the island. Once, there was a Shiva devotee by the name Supriya who was among the prisoners. He never ate food or drank water without worshipping Shiva. He continued to do Puja even while in prison.

When the guards informed their chief about his, he ordered that Supriya be put to death. Then Supriya prayed to Lord Shankara for his life. The Lord appeared before him immediately and destroyed the entire group of demons including their families. The Lord laid open the entire island for all the four classes of people for living. On the other land, Parvati here granted a boon to Daruka. As a result, at the end of that era, only Demons would be created and she would rule Daruka. Lord Shiva accepted this. Then Shiva and Parvati stayed there. Shiva once again assumed the form of JyotirLinga, with the name Nageshwar and Parvati was known as Nageshwari.

Key Words : List of Jyotirlingas in India, History of Jyotirlingam, Poem of Jyotirlingam, Meaning of Jyotirlingam Poem